Flat lay of bag fabrics, leather swatches, zippers and metal hardware

Material capability

Bag Materials: Our Full OEM & ODM Material Capability

Eighteen Craft manufactures custom bags in six core material families — PU, synthetic leather, genuine leather, polyester, nylon/poly fabric and canvas — with the linings, foams and hardware that go with them.

  • 6 material families
  • MOQ from 500 pcs
  • ~500,000 pcs monthly

Quick comparison

Which material suits which bag

Material choice sets a bag's price, weight, durability and retail positioning before a single stitch is sewn. Use this table to narrow the field, then read the detail sections below. Every option is available across our bag categories.

Material Look & feel Durability Water resistance Weight Relative cost Best for
PU / synthetic leather Leather-look, smooth or grained Good; coating wears over years Water-repellent surface Light Low to mid Handbags, cosmetic bags, structured laptop bags
Genuine leather Natural hand-feel, develops patina Excellent with care Low unless treated Heavy High Premium handbags, executive briefcases
Polyester (Oxford) Technical, matte Good to excellent by denier Good; better with PU/TPU coating Light to medium Low Backpacks, commuter bags, travel bags
Nylon / poly fabric Softer, more supple than polyester Excellent abrasion resistance Good with coating Lightest per strength Mid Technical backpacks, tool bags, packable travel
Canvas Natural cotton, matte, prints well Good; heavier weights very robust Low unless waxed Heavy Low to mid Totes, lifestyle bags, promotional lines
Hardware & trims Metal or moulded finishes Defines perceived quality n/a Adds weight Varies widely Every category — zippers, buckles, webbing, linings

The six families in detail

Material specifications and trade-offs

PU & synthetic leather

PU and synthetic leather deliver a leather appearance at lower cost, lighter weight and far more consistent colour than natural hide.

These materials are a polyurethane coating over a fabric backing, which means thickness, surface texture and finish are all specifiable. Litchi grain, saffiano, pebbled, matte and patent finishes are routine, and embossing or printing can be applied to the surface.

For brands the practical advantages are predictability and cutting yield. A roll of PU cuts with far less waste than a natural hide, which matters at short quantities where material waste has a visible effect on unit cost. PU also supports vegan product positioning without a price premium.

The trade-off is lifespan: surface coatings eventually crack or peel with heavy use, and grade quality varies widely between suppliers. Specify the grade and backing rather than simply asking for "PU".

Best suited to: Women's handbagsCosmetic bagsLaptop bagsUrban commuter bags

Genuine leather

Genuine leather is offered for premium lines where hand-feel, patina and perceived value justify a higher cost and a longer lead time.

Full-grain retains the natural surface and ages best; top-grain is sanded for a more uniform appearance; split leather comes from the lower layer and behaves quite differently from either. Thickness, tanning and edge finishing are all specified alongside the hide selection.

Be honest with yourself about the trade-offs before committing. Leather is heavier, more expensive, slower to source in consistent colour, and shows natural grain variation that some retail customers read as a defect. Minimum quantities also tend to rise because hides are purchased in batches.

A common approach for a first market test is to prototype in leather, then launch the volume run in a high-grade PU while the design proves itself.

Best suited to: Premium handbagsExecutive briefcasesSmall leather goods

Polyester & nylon (Oxford fabrics)

Polyester and nylon Oxford fabrics are the workhorses of backpacks, travel bags and commuter styles, chosen by denier and coating.

Denier measures yarn thickness, which is why spec sheets list 210D, 420D, 600D, 900D and 1680D. Higher denier means a heavier, more abrasion-resistant fabric. 600D is the common mid-point for everyday backpacks; 900D and above suits heavy-duty and tool applications; 210D to 420D is typical for linings and lightweight packable bags.

Between the two fibres, nylon is lighter, softer in hand and more abrasion-resistant for a given weight, which is why technical and outdoor-leaning products lean nylon. Polyester holds colour better under UV exposure, resists water slightly better untreated and costs less, which is why most volume commuter and promotional products lean polyester.

Both are usually coated with PU, PVC or TPU for water resistance. The coating is specified separately from the fabric — two bags in "600D polyester" can perform very differently depending on what is on the back of it.

Best suited to: BackpacksTravel bagsLaptop bagsTool bagsOrganizer sets

Canvas & cotton blends

Canvas offers a natural, printable surface that suits totes, lifestyle bags and branded promotional lines.

Canvas is a heavy plain-weave cotton or cotton-polyester blend, specified by weight — commonly 8oz to 16oz for bags. Heavier canvas gives more structure and a more substantial hand. Waxed finishes add water resistance and a distinctive appearance that ages visibly.

Print behaviour is canvas's biggest commercial advantage: screen printing is inexpensive and the natural surface reads as honest and unfussy, which is why branded totes default to it. Poly-canvas blends additionally accept sublimation printing.

Its limits are weight and water behaviour. Untreated cotton absorbs water and dries slowly, and a heavy canvas bag is noticeably heavier empty than a nylon equivalent of the same size.

Best suited to: TotesCasual shoulder bagsTool bagsPromotional lines

Beyond the outer fabric

Hardware, linings and trims

Outer fabric gets the attention, but components decide both durability and perceived quality. A well-chosen fabric paired with a weak zipper produces returns. Eighteen Craft sources and specifies all of the following in-house as part of the one-stop OEM & ODM process.

Zippers
Nylon coil, moulded plastic or metal teeth; branded or generic; custom pullers in metal, moulded or leather-tab form.
Buckles & clips
Side-release, cam and magnetic closures in moulded plastic or metal, with plating specified (nickel, gunmetal, antique brass, painted).
Webbing & straps
Polyester or nylon webbing by width and weave; padded shoulder straps with foam density and mesh backing to spec.
Linings
Typically 210D polyester; printed linings, branded jacquard and heavier weights available for premium builds.
Foam & reinforcement
EVA, PE and PU foams for laptop protection and panel structure; board and webbing reinforcement at stress points.
Logo methods
Embroidery, silk-screen print, heat transfer, embossing/debossing, woven labels, rubber patches and custom metal plates.
Hands comparing fabric and leather swatches during a material selection review

Material sourcing & consistency

Roughly 500 employees and 500,000 pieces of monthly capacity mean material is purchased in working volumes rather than ad hoc. Every incoming roll is checked for weight, denier and colour against the approved swatch before it reaches the cutting table, and batch colour is matched across components so linings, webbing and outer fabric agree.

Eighteen Craft holds no third-party material certifications and does not imply any. Trust here rests on the inspection routine, which you can review inside our factory.

Decision guide

Four questions that settle your material plan

What is the use scenario?

Daily laptop commuting favours coated polyester or nylon. Occasional evening use favours PU or leather. Trade and jobsite use favours high-denier polyester or heavy canvas.

What is the target retail price?

Material accounts for a large share of unit cost, so it is the fastest lever for hitting a price point. Moving from genuine leather to a good-grade PU, or from 900D to 600D polyester, changes cost more than any other single decision.

How many units are you making?

At a 500-piece test quantity, materials with high cutting yield and readily available stock colours keep both cost and lead time under control. Custom-dyed or specially finished materials make more sense once volumes rise.

What does the brand need to claim?

Vegan positioning points to PU or synthetic leather. Recycled content points to rPET polyester, recycled nylon or recycled cotton canvas — available as material options, described honestly as such rather than as certified claims.

A good fit

  • Brands that want to test several material options at a flexible MOQ
  • Buyers who need a material plan built around a target price point
  • Programmes spanning multiple categories and material families

Not the best fit

  • Buyers who need certified organic or audited sustainability documentation
  • Programmes requiring specific third-party material test reports we do not hold
  • Single-piece or sub-MOQ material experiments

Material questions

Frequently asked questions

Send a reference product or a target price and we will propose a specific material plan rather than a generic list.

Request a material quote
What is the difference between PU leather and genuine leather bags?

PU leather is a polyurethane coating over a fabric backing: lighter, cheaper, colour-consistent between batches and animal-free, but the coating eventually wears with heavy use. Genuine leather is natural hide: heavier, more expensive, with real hand-feel and patina, but it varies in grain and takes longer to source in consistent colour. Emerging brands testing a market usually choose PU; premium positioning usually justifies leather.

Is nylon or polyester better for bags?

Neither is universally better. Nylon is lighter, softer and more abrasion-resistant for a given weight, so technical backpacks and tool bags lean nylon. Polyester holds colour better under UV, resists water slightly better untreated and costs less, so volume commuter, travel and promotional bags lean polyester. Both are normally coated with PU, PVC or TPU for water resistance.

What does 600D Oxford fabric mean, and is it durable?

The "D" stands for denier, a measure of yarn thickness — 600D is a mid-weight Oxford fabric and the common default for everyday backpacks and commuter bags. It is durable enough for daily carry over several years of normal use. For heavy-duty tool bags or rugged travel products, 900D and above is the better specification.

Which material is best for waterproof bags?

No standard bag fabric is fully waterproof on its own — water resistance comes from the coating and the construction. Coated nylon or polyester (PU, PVC or TPU backing) gives strong water resistance for everyday rain, and TPU-welded seams with waterproof zippers take it further. Untreated canvas and genuine leather are the least water-resistant options.

What weight of canvas is best for tote bags?

Most promotional and lifestyle totes sit between 8oz and 12oz canvas: light enough to fold and print cheaply, heavy enough to hold shape when loaded. Heavier weights up to 16oz give a structured, premium tote that stands on its own but costs more and adds noticeable empty weight.

Can you produce bags in recycled or vegan materials?

Yes. Recycled and lower-impact material options are available across families: rPET polyester, recycled nylon, vegan PU and recycled or organic cotton canvas. Eighteen Craft describes these as material options rather than certified claims — we hold no third-party sustainability certification and will not imply one.

Send your specification for a material recommendation

Tell us the bag category, use scenario and target price. We will propose a material plan with swatches and quote against it.

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